How to cut, fit, and finish a dress

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HOW TO

CUT, FIT, AND FINISH

A DRESS.

BY

Mdme.v LOFVALL,

PRACTICAL TEACHER OF DRESSMAKING,

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BOSTON:

ALFRED MUDGE & SON, PRINTERS,

No. 24 Franklin Street.

1892.

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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892,

By Fkeu'k S. McGregor,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

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The Rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved.

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DRESSMAKING.

JUST PUBLISHED: How to CUT, FIT, and FINISH A DRESS.

(No Chart required.)

By MADAME LOFVALL, of London, the eminent teacher of high-
class millinery, dressmaking, French model ciittine and fitting by mail; upon
receipt of price, 50 cents.

FRED S. McGregor - - - Jamaica Plain, Mass.

PAGE

Front Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice .... 3

Back Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice .... 4

Huw to Take the Pattern of a Made Bodice 9

How to Take the Pattern 10

How to Take the Pattern of the Back of a Made Bodice . 12

How to Take the Pattern of a Made Sleeve 13

How to Cut the Bodice Out 14

Fitting On and Alterations 18

Plow to Finish the Bodice 21

How to Cut and Finish the Sleeves 25

How to Cut the Skirt ; 28

How to Make the Skirt 31

How to Make the Pocket 35

How to Sew the Waist-band On 36

FACE

Dress Trimming, Kilting -38

Single Box Pleat 39

Double Box Pleat 40

How to Make a Gathered Flounce 40

Puffings 42

Feather Ruche 44

Fluted Ruche . . . . ' 46

Fluted Flounce 46

Gathered Ruche 47

Rolled or French Hem 47

Crossway Bands 49

Piped Buttonholes 50

Remarks on Dress Bodices, etc 51

Remaking Old Dresses 51

Dress Goods and Lining, What to Use 52

Tall Ladies 58

Medium-sized Ladies 58

Remarks on Sleeves 59

How to Make Up a Velvet Cuff 63

Remarks on Skirts 64

Front Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodice.

From neck to waist-line i-i

Length of body from shoulder seam at neck to depth

required for basque ...... 2-2

Width of shoulders from shoulder seam to shoulder

seam 3-3

Width of chest across from armhole to armhole . . 4-4

Bust right round, close up under arms .... 5-5

Waist right round 6-6

Length under arm from armhole to waist-line . . 7-7

Hips right round (allow for improver) . . . . 8 8

Depth of shoulder ....... 9-9

Neck right round lo-io

Armhole ii-n

Back Measurement for Jacket or Round Bodi
From neck band to waist-line
Width of shoulders
Across from armhole seams .
Back line for bust measure .
Back line for waist measure .
Back line for hip measure

Sleeve Measurement.
From projecting bone at top of shoulder to elbow point
Round sleeve 6 inches down from armhole
Round sleeve at elbow point .
Round wrist ......

Length of outside seam
Length of inside seam .

ce.

12-

-12

13-

-13

14-

-14

15-

-15

16

17

18-

-18

19-

-19

20-

-20

21-

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22-

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23-

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INTRODUCTION.

This book is published at the earnest request
of many of my former pupils, and I gladly send
*• How to Cut, Fit, and Finish a Dress "forth
with the sincere wish that each reader will give
the lessons a fair trial in re-making old dresses
as well as new ; and I have every confidence in
saying that, by careful attention to the instruc-
tions given in this book, no amateur dressmaker
need be afraid of success ; -and, as dressmaking
is about the most profitable of all fancy work to
which a young lady (however good her social
position) can devote her leisure hours, I strongly
advise every mother with a family of daughters
to improve herself in the "Art of Dressmaking ; "
and, as soon as each of her daughters can use the
needle, to teach them how to make a little frock
(not a doll's frock, but a useful garment to fit a
child).

6 INTRODUCTION.

Thirst teach your little daughter to make the
waist, then the pretty puff sleeves ; and, after
they are set in the armholes, teach her how to
make the skirt and sew it on to the waist-
band.

Please do not put forward the plea, " My little
girl is too young." Not so ; they are never too
young to learn to work for themselves or younger
sisters ; and the little girls of the present day
are not less clever than those of a hundred years
ago ; but to hear the story our grandmother tells
of the beautiful things which her mother and
herself could make in their younger days, must
make some of our *' wee " misses feel very small ;
the grandmother should say whether her mother
and herself were taught to make all the wonder-
ful things of the story.

I have seen a child's dress cut out and beau-
tifully finished by a little girl between the age
of ten and twelve years ; and when I was tak-
ing my second course of lessons twenty-four
years ago, I well remember one of the pupils
( since dead) commencing the business of dress-
making, she being at that time in her fourteenth
year. I fancy I hear some reader say " How
could they do these things when so young ?

INTRODUCTION. 7

Simply because they had been taught the
business by a patient teacher.

Seeing that dressmaking is not so difficult to
learn as some of the fancy work taught in. our
schools, I would ask, Why should a child be
taught fancy work, and not the most useful of
all sewed work, namely, how to make her own
dresses ? 1 do not mean that children should
be taught fashionable dressmaking, but that
they should learn to make a useful dress for
home or school wear, without any trimmings ;
and, in regard to the sewing, etc., to be finished
in first-class style. In the first place, teach them
to make a new dress, then let them learn to
re-make old ones for themselves or younger
sisters, making it a rule for them to work at the
dress one hour each day regiclarly, from Monday
to Saturday.

This will teach them to be systematic, and
they will grow up to be useful needlewomen and
a credit to their parents,

J. H. LOFVALL.

DRbSSMAKlNG

HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN OF A MADE
BODICE.

Use white leno, or white tissue paper, and,
remember, no turnings are to be allowed on any
seam but what is taken up in the breast-darts or
pleats. In taking the pattern of the front, be
sure that the whole of it is done over the knee
and left hand only ; never at any time lay it fiat
on the cutting-board or table.

Some dressmakers very often, when taking
the front pattern, lay it over the left knee only,
with the left hand under the bodice to extend
the parts above the breast-darts, and with the
right pinning the paper smoothly down. The
pattern should be taken from the inside of the
bodice ; but, seeing the number of seams in the
present fashionable bodice, a beginner will often

lO DRESSMAKING.

find it difficult at first ; in any case, there can
be no harm in taking the pattern from the out-
side.

HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN.

First take the half of the bodice, the right side
of it, or whichever side the button holes edge.

To take the pattern from the inside you must
tu»-n the bodice inside out ; lay the bodice over
your knee, and pin the edge of the leno, or paper,
to the hem where the button holes lie, leaving
about 2 inches of the leno, or paper, over the
hem to allow of it being turned in as you please
when measuring size for bust and waist ; leave
about 3 inches of the leno, or paper, projecting
beyond the neck, shoulders, and waist-line.

If the bodice be pointed back and front, then
allow the leno, or paper, to go beyond the waist-
line to the depth you require for the length of
the basque.

Next place the left hand under the bodice at
the first breast-dart or pleat, and with the right
hand smooth the leno, or paper, down to the
part where the dart curves in most at the waist-
line, for it is here that the pleat is deepest.

DRESSMAKING. II

Now, with the right hand, pinch up a fold of
the leno, or paper, and put a pin through it ;
then move the left hand up to the top of the
breast-dart until you feel the point with the fore-
finger, and put a pin through both leno and
bodice, just above the point {this will keep the
leno, or papei', whichever is used, in its proper
place). Be very careful not to take up too much
leno, so as to cause the seam to go beyond the
right place. Then crease the edge of this fold
from the top to where you put in the first pin,
and pin along between the two pleats, placing
the pins close by the stitching. When you have
finished the first pleat, do the second pleat in
the same way as you did the first. Be particular
to see that when you pin the leno pleats you do
not put the pins into the bodice itself. Now pin
the leno well down on to the bodice, so that the
breast-darts will not be pulled out of position.

If the bodice is made with front under-arm
seam, fold the leno, and pin in the same way as
you did the breast-darts, attending to the part
where it is pinched in most at the waist-line ;
make this seam from 3 to 6 inches down from
the waist-line {according to fasJiion or figure of
the lady).

12 DRESSMAKING.

Second, lay the bodice over your left knee,
and, with your left hand under the bodice stretch
the chest over your fingers, and pin the leno
across in a straight line to the armhole, keeping
the pins about i of an inch from the armhole,
piping cord, or seam. Then move the left hand
higher up, and smooth the leno up to the neck
and shoulders, being careful to see that the leno
is quite smooth about the armhole, neck, and
shoulder-seams ; place pins close one after the
other, so that they will come equally distant
with the sewing of neck-band, armhole, and
shoulder seams, keeping the pins about ^ of
an inch inside of the sewing. When you have
finished the upper part, cut the leno out round
the armhole, fix the under-arm seam, and cut off
all turninsfs. The front is now finished.

HOW TO TAKE THE PATTERN OF THE
BACK OF A MADE BODICE.

To take the pattern of the back. First pin
the leno from the neck down to the waist-line,
then round the neck, shoulder, and armhole ;
next pin close down by the side-form seam ;

DRESSMAKING. 1 3

see that the leno is quite smooth, and allow i^-
inch to go over when you pin the leno down
the middle of the back, to admit of the sloping
of the basque. Now take the pattern of the side-
form. First see that the leno is cut just to meet
the piping-cord or seam of the armhole, also
that the leno is on the straight at the waist-line,
or your pattern will not set. The bodice pattern
is now ready for use.

HOW TO TAKE A PATTERN OF A MADE
SLEEVE.

Turn the sleeve inside out, and pass the left
hand through the shoulder end, and take the
pattern of the upper half first. To do this, pin
the leno in a straight line from the shoulder-
seam to the elbow ; next put pins round the top
of the sleeve, -J of an inch from the armhole
seam, leaving about 2 or 3 inches of the leno to
go over. Now smooth the leno across to the
bend of the arm, putting pins close down by the
inside seam ; then smooth the leno downwards,
and put in pins to keep it from straining at the
elbow. Then fold the leno back to the outside

14 DRESSMAKING.

seam below the elbow, and pin it close round the
wrist ; turn back the leno in aline with the edge
of the cuff, and cut off all turnings.

In taking the pattern of the under part of the
sleeve, commence at the elbow, pinning the
paper up toward the top, then down to the wrist,
and close to the inside seam, finishing in the
same way as you did with the upper part. If
you wish the sleeve to fit the arm tightly, you
must allow for two or three small pleats, or
gathers, just on the outer seam of the upper half
of the sleeve only, and where the elbow point
comes. It is best to form these pleats on the
leno pattern, and make notches in the under
half of the sleeve pattern at the elbow point,
where the pleats will fit in.

HOW TO CUT THE BODICE OUT.

Having got the pattern cut out, take the cor-
rect measurement of the bodice which you have
taken the leno pattern from ; then place the
waist lining double on the cutting board or
table. See that the lining is quite smooth, with
the selvage edges close together, the folded edge

DRESSMAKING. I 5

being nearest to you. Now place your waist
pattern on the lining with the front to the
selvage edge and with the shoulder part of the
pattern towards the left hand top of the cutting-
board. Allow li inches for the front hem, then
carefully pin every part of the pattern in position.
When you have done this, run your tracing-
wheel close to the edge of the leno pattern as a
guide to sew by. Then cut out the lining,
allowing from f to i inch for the shoulder seams,
i^ inches for the seams under the arms, and not
quite ^ of an inch for neck and armhole seams.
Outline the breast-darts or pleats with the
tracing-wheel, but do not cut them ; the first dart
should begin from i^ to 2 inches from the front
hem (according to fashion or figure of the
lady).

The second dart should be from J to i^ inches
from the first dart. Outline the front under-
arm seam with the tracing-wheel, as you did the
breast-darts, then trace the seams for the back
under-arm. Next place the pattern for the
back of the bodice on the lining ; putting the
centre of the back to the selvage edge, with
the neck part to left hand top of cutting-board ;
allow if of an inch for turnings at the centre of

l6 DRESSMAKING.

the back, J to i inch for shoulder seams, ^ an
inch for the seam to fit side-form, and not quite
^ of an inch for the neck and armhole seams.
Now place the pattern for the side-form on the
lining ; allow } an inch for turnings at the part
next to the back, li inches for the seams under
the arm, and not quite i of an inch for the part
to fit the armhole. Before you trace or cut the
lining, see that the whole of it is on the straight
way of the lining at the waist-line, then carefully
trace and cut each piece out. The lining now
peing cut out, place it smoothly on the material,
which is always best cut on the double.

Put the front hem on the lining to the selvage
edge ; do the same with the centre of the back —
unless a pleated basque : in that case see remarks
p. 59. Then place the side-form pieces, and,
before cutting out any part, see that the whole
is perfectly straight at the waist-line. Now cut
the material close by the edge of the lining.
When you have done this, place each piece of
the material with the right side face down on the
cutting-board, and carefully pin each piece of
lining on to the corresponding piece of material,
tacking it on to the same. While doing this,
see that both material and lining are quite

DRESSMAKING. 1/

smooth. Be sure to pin and tack in the marks
made by tracing-wheel ; let the tacking stitches
be about i an inch in length, not more, and
very regular (a good dressmaker is always
known by the tacking and fitting up of a
bodice). After you have finished tacking the
waist, fix the front hem, also pin the breast-
darts together, then do the same with front
under-arm seams, and tack them firmly with
No. 30 or 40 soft white tacking cotton. Now
pin the seam for the centre of the back together,
and tack it down, then place the side-form
pieces and tack them together ; when you have
done this, lay the back and fronts of the bodice
flat on the cutting-board or table, and with your
inch measure see that the back and fronts
correspond with your bust and waist measure-
ment. Next join the bodice on the shoulders,
pinning the front parts on to the back, and
allowing the back part of the shoulder to set
easy on the front. (The front part of the
shoulder is always best stretched a little on to
the back). Attention to this will prevent
wrinkles on the front part of the shoulder.
When you have tacked the shoulder seams, fix
the back under-arm scams, and tack them

1 8 DRESSMAKING.

together. The bodice will now be ready for
fitting on, stitching, etc.

FITTING ON AND ALTERATIONS.

If the bodice from which you have taken the
pattern be a good fitting one, and you have taken
it correctly, it will not need to be altered or fitted
on, unless the lady may have become stouter
or more slender since the bodice was made ;
in that case, you will have to fit it on. When
you put the bodice on the figure to be fitted, fix
a pin at the waist-line, back and front, and pin
the bodice firmly down to the underdress or
corset, to keep it in place while you are fitting.
After you have got the waist and the parts
round the hips to fit, attend to the seams on the
shoulders, and should you find, when fitting the
bodice, that the waist is too tight, let it out a
little at the breast-darts, also at the back under-
arm seams (although much depends on. the figure
of the lady). Sometimes the alteration can be
made by letting out a little of the front hem at
the waist-line ; in that case you might have to
bring the breast-darts more forward.

DRESSMAKING. IQ

If the size of the bust is to remain the same,
be careful not to let out more than necessary,
nor too high up in the breast-dart seams. If you
find that the bodice is too tight round the bust,
you can, almost in all cases, let the darts out up
to each point ; you can also allow a little out at
the front hem, sloping it down from the neck to
the bust, thence to the waist-line.

In some figures the line from the bust to waist
is almost straight, and in others just the reverse,
so, in all cases, you must use your own judgment
when fitting on Should the bodice be too tight
across the back, you can ease it by letting out a
little at the centre seam, or if too wide, take a
little in at the center of the back.

The shoulder seams for a slender figure must
be more aslant than those for a stout figure ; and,
again, a slender figure requires the back at the
neck to be higher, and the curve at the neck in
front of the bodice to be rounded out a little
deeper than the neck curve for a stout figure.

Be careful not to slope the shoulder seams too
much, as this is often the cause of creases at the
top of the back.

Sometimes creases appear both across the top
of the back, and also cominir from the shoulder

20 DRESSMAKING.

towards the chest and armhole at the front of
the bodice. These are often caused by the
shoulder seams being drawn too much towards
the front at the neck, and too far back at the
armhole. Again, it can be just the opposite;
that is, the seams are too far back at the neck,
and brought forward too much at the armhole,
and sometimes the shoulder seams are not
sufficiently sloped, and in some cases they are
sloped too much.

Should you meet with any of these difficulties
when fittmg on, your best plan would be to un-
pick the shoulder seams and make them to come
more or less on the top of the shoulder.

On no account use scissors when fitting on.

Some dressmakers adopt the tailors' plan, and
mark with chalk the line where the neck-band
will come, also where the sleeves will fit in the
armhole ; but, as this plan will not do in the case
of some materials, it is best to put in pins to
mark the line where the neck-band is to be
sewn on.

Do the same for the armhole seams, and
when you take the bodice off the figure, put a
tacking close by the pins ; but before you take
the bodice off the ficfure, fit the right arm sleeve

DRESSMAKING. 21

on, then you will be able to judge if the sleeves
need any alteration.

Be careful to make the sleeves fit at the elbow
point, and see that the highest point of the
rounded part at the top of the sleeve comes to
the highest part of the shoulder, and turn the
edge in to fit, putting in pins, same as you did
when making the line for the neck-band ; do
the same at the wrist, and when you take the
sleeve off the arm put in a tacking close
by the pins same as with neck-band and arm-
hole.

HOW TO FINISH THE BODICE.

Having got the waist to fit thoroughly, each
seam stitched, and the edges neatly bound with
narrow ribbon, or overcast with fine thread,
same color as the material, work the button-
holes on the right-hand side of the bodice; let
the buttonholes be from I an inch to i inch apart.
Next press open all seams, except the shoulder
seams ; then sew Prussian binding, ribbon, or
tape, about J an inch wide, on to each seam (this is
the casing for whalebone). First tack the bind-
ing or ribbon down the centre of each seam, and
right over the line made by stitching. Begin at

22 DRESSMAKING.

the breast darts, and allow the casing to go a
little beyond the top of each dart ; this part of
the casing must be doubled over an inch or two,
and kept loose ; the edges of this doubled part
must be neatly joined together at both sides
with fine thread or silk, same color as casing.
Now, with the same thread, run the edge of
each casing neatly down, and see that you do
not take the stitches through on to the lining of
the bodice itself. (When sewing on binding,
ribbon, or tape for whalebone casing, be careful
to allow the binding to set easy on the seams,
for if it is in the least tight it will cause wrinkles
at the waist-line ; and see that no casing on any
seam is carried higher than those on the breast-
darts, also that the casing is within ^ an inch
of the mark for turning in at the bottom of the
basque.) When the whalebone casings are all
set on, press open the shoulder seams, and pipe
the armholes (if in fashion). To pipe the arm-
holes, first cut a piece of the material on the
cross and about .] an inch wide, then tack a piece
of piping cord in the centre of this cross-cut
strip, and tack it round on the marks made for
armhole seam, which will be now ready for the
sleeves.

DRESSMAKING. 2 3

If the bodice is cut pointed back and front,
and is intended to be worn untrimmed, it should
be piped round the edge (if in fashion).

To do this, first cut a piece of the material
on the cross, from li to i^ inches wide, tack in
the piping-cord about i inch from one edge ;
this will leave about i inch of the cross strip to
lap over. When you have finished a piece the
length required, commence to sew it on to the
right side of the bodice, beginning at the left-
hand side, keeping the cord about f of an inch
from the edge, and with the right side of the cross
strip uppermost, the folded part where the cord
is being nearest to you. When you have
finished sewing on the cord, turn the strip over
on to the wrong side, tacking it down so as to
show the piping only on the right side of the
bodice, turn in the raw edge, and hem it neatly
on to the lining. If you do not like the bodice
to be edged with a piping cord, you can line it
up with a cross strip of sarsnet, or material same
as the dress ; the strip should be about 2 inches
wide. Before you sew on the strip of sarsnet or
material, cut a strip of leno on the cross about
3 inches wide, and tack it round the edge at the
bottom of the basque ; when you have finished

24 DRESSMAKING.

tacking, fold the part marked for turning in, at
the edge of the basque, over on to the leno, and
sew the raw edges lightly down on to the leno
and lining only ; now insert the whalebone into
the casing on each seam, and fix the bone in
place (see remarks, p. 56). Then run one edge
of the sarsnet on to the folded part, about ^
inch from the bottom of the basque, and, when
sewing the opposite side of the sarsnet down on
to the lining, be careful not to take the stitches
through on the right side of the bodice.

Next sew on the buttons (see p. 56), being
careful to see that they are placed exactly
opposite to the buttonholes. Now finish the
neck : first cut a piece of the material about
li inches wide, or to the depth required (on the
bias, which is best, but if preferred it can be
made on the straight way of the material), and
allow ^ of an inch turnings over the size for length
and width of neckband. When you have cut
the neckband, place it on a piece of fine book
muslin or leno, and tack it lightly down with
fine cotton. After you have cut and shaped a
piece of sarsnet for lining neckband, place the
centre of the neckband to the top of the centre
seam, at the back of the bodice, then carefully

DRESSMAKING. 25

pin the neckband towards the front at either
side ; now tack it firmly down, and sew it neatly
with the muslin nearest to you, turn in the
edges, and line with the sarsnet. Should you
wish the neckband to be stitched on the outside
with the sewing machine, turn in ^ of an inch at
the bottom of the band, and pin it from the centre
of the back to the front of the bodice at both
sides, tacking it down close to the edge on the
outside of the band ; do the top in the same
way, and line the inside of the band with ribbon
or a strip of silk. Now stitch on the outside of
the neckband close to the edge at the bottom,
then along the top, with silk thread same color
as the material. Next work a silk loop on the
left-hand side of the neckband, and place a hook
to match on the right-hand side; do the same
at the bottom of the waist if it is required.

HOW TO CUT AND FINISH THE SLEEVES.
Take the lining left over after cutting out the
bodice, and lay it on the cutting-board or table ;
place the leno or paper pattern of the sleeves
on the lining and pin it carefully in position,
taking care that the lining is on the straight
above the elbow. When you have done this,

26 DRESSMAKING.

run your tracing wheel close to the edge of the
pattern, as a guide to sew by, then cut the lining
out ; allow ^ an inch on each side for turnings,
about i of an inch at the top of the sleeve, and
I inch at the wrist. Next, cut the material to
match. After this is done, place each piece of
material, right side down, on the cutting-board,
with the top of the sleeve to the left hand top
of cutting-board ; then lay the lining already cut
out for the sleeves on each piece of material to
match, pin the lining on material in the marks
made by tracing-wheel, and allow the lining to
set easy on the material. Now tack on the
lining in the marks made by tracing-wheel, and
when you have finished tacking the upper and
under parts, pin the upper parts on to the under
parts in marks made by tracing-wheel, leaving
all turnings to go over at the wrist. See that
each sleeve sets well, and that the elbow points
meet ; then tack the seams by the tracing-marks
on the lining, to keep them in place while
stitching, and sew them down from the top by
hand or sewing machine, being particular to see
that the stitches are even and not too tight.
When you have stitched both sleeves, cut off
the turnings on each side, neatly overcast and

DRESSMAKING. 2/

press open each seam ; now cut off the turnings
at the wrist, leaving | of an inch to turn on to
the muslin or leno. Next line the inside of the
wrist, tack a piece of muslin or leno, about 2
inches wide, around the inside of the wrist, and
turn the f of an inch left for that purpose over on
to the muslin, tacking it firmly down and lining
with ribbon or sarsnet about i^ inches wide, or
if you have a piece of good silk, same color as
the dress material, which is best cut on the bias,
you will find that it will wear much better than
the ribbon. Commence to sew the silk lining or
ribbon at the under part of the sleeve, and
about one inch from the inner seam. Be careful
not to strain the silk, but ease it a little when
you get near the outer seam, and when you
come to the inner seam again, fasten off. Then
turn the silk down on to the sleeve lining, and
tack it firmly round the edge of the wrist, keep-
ing the silk well under, so that it will not show
on the outside. When you have tacked the
silk in place, hem it down on to the lining, and
see that you do not show the stitches on the
right side of the sleeve. Now close the join in
the silk lining (which will be i inch from the
seam in the sleeve ) with slip stitches. The

28 DRESSMAKING.

sleeves will now be ready to fit into the arm-
holes of the bodice, and, when you pin them in,
see that they set easy on the tops, from the
shoulder seam towards the front, and sew them
in by hand, with the sleeve next to you.

If no cording is put around the armhole, you
must be very careful when sewing the sleeves
in ; the stitches should be firm, and done with
silk or linen thread. After both sleeves are
stitched into the armholes, all turnings must be
cut off, leaving about the third part of an inch,
which should be neatly overcast or bound with
narrow silk ribbon, the exact width, so that the
armhole will look neat when finished.

HOW TO CUT THE SKIRT.

First take the length of the front, from the
waist-line to the instep, then take the length of
the side and also of the back from the waist-line
to the length required.

Next place the material on the cutting-board
or table ; and cutout the front breadth, allowing
about I inch for turnings at the bottom, and
12- inches for turnings at the top. The front
breadth should measure from 22 to 30 inches at

DRESSMAKING. 2g

the bottom, and at the top, after allowing for
darts, from lo to 15 inches (according to the
figure of the lady). After you have cut the
front breadth, pin the two selvage edges
together the wrong side out, and lay the breadth
on the cutting-board or table, with the selvage
edges nearest to you. When you have done this,
take your bodice pattern and place the edge at
the waist-line, where the buttonholes lie, even
with the centre at the top of the front breadth,
which is lying double on the cutting-board or
table. Now put a pin in the front breadth, just
opposite to the first or second breast-dart seam ;
then place your left hand down on the bodice,
right over the two breast-darts to keep them in
place, and with your right hand pinch up a fold
in the front breadth, just opposite to where the
two breast-darts come in the bodice, and pin the
darts in the front breadth down from 4 to 6
inches (according to the figure of the lady).
Then move your left hand along to the front
under-arm seam, and put a pin (or a chalk mark
is better) in the front breadth right opposite to
the front under-arm seam, remembering that it
is from this pin, or chalk mark, you will com-
mence to slope the sides of the front breadth.

30

DRESSMAKING.

Next, move the bodice away, and with chalk,
tacking cotton, or tracing-wheel, outline the
darts in the front breadth, but do not cut them.
After you have done this, take your inch
measure along the bottom of the breadth, and
put in a pin, or mark with chalk the number of
inches for the width at the bottom. Then trace
a sloped line, from the chalk mark at the top to
the chalk mark at the bottom of the breadth.
Before you cut the sloped piece off the front
breadth, be sure that the selvage edges are
pinned close together. When the sloped partis
cut off, cut a piece out in a rounded shape about
f of an inch deep in the middle, at the top of
the breadth. Now take your inch measure over
every part of the breadth, and see that it corre-
sponds with your measurement. Next cut out
the two first gores, then the back breadth, which,
like the front, must be without a seam in the
centre.

Wfeen cutting the gores, you must allow i or
2 inches more in length than was allowed for
the front width. If the material be 24 inches
wide, the gore will measure 18 inches at the
bottom and 6 at the top ; first chalk a mark for
number of inches at the top and bottom of the

DRESSMAKING. 3 1

breadth you intend to gore. Then trace a
sloped line from the mark at the top to the
mark at the bottom, and cut the gore carefully
out by the sloped line just traced. When you
have done this, pin the two sloped edges together
and pinch up a fold about i inch deep at the top
of the gore, exactly opposite to where the back
under-arm seam comes at the waist-line in the
bodice. Now pin or trace the darts in the gores
(same as you did the front-breadth darts). The
first gores are now finished. If you wish for
second gores, trace and cut them in the same
way as you did the first, only allowing i or 2
inches more for length. The back breadth must
measure from 24 to 30 inches vvide, according
to fashion or figure of the lady.

HOW TO MAKE THE SKIRT.

First pin and tack the darts at the top of the
front breadth and gores ; then take the front
breadth and lay it on the cutting-board or table.
Now take the first gores, and pin them on
either side of the front breadth ; allow all turnings
to go over at the top. Be careful to see that
the gored part is not in the least stretched.

32 DRESSMAKING.

When you have finished pinning the gores to
the front breadth, tack them together a good ^
inch in from the edge, keeping the gored part
next to you.

The tacking must be very regular and not
more than i an inch in length, as they are the
guide to stitch by. Now pin and tack the back
breadth to the gored side of the first gore, or
second, if there should be two at either side of
the front breadth.

Next stitch all seams from top to bottom,
with the gored sides uppermost, leaving un-
stitched about i a yard of the seam nearest to
the back on the left hand side of the skirt, for
the vent or placket-hole. (If you intend to trim
the skirt round the bottom, then you would
require to leave the seam nearest to the back
width open all the way down until you are
ready to band the skirt.) The vent or placket-
hole must be neatly faced with a piece of ribbon
on the right hand side, and with a piece of
material same as the dress, make a false hem on
the left hand side. Then overcast the edges of
each gore (this must be done with very fine
thread, and the stitches not too close or in the
least tight ), but very often they are overcast

DRESSMAKING. 33

before the skirt is joined together. Now press
open each seam on a wooden roller ( to be had
at the drapers) with a piece of flannel sewed
firmly round it. Place the roller underneath the
seams on the right side of the skirt, and press
them open on the wrong side. Great care must
be taken, while doing this, so that the iron does
not press on the turnings. Having pressed each
seam open, lay the skirt on the cutting-board or
table, and pin the seams, top and bottom of
either side together, and be careful you do not
stretch them. For this reason, it is best that all
gored skirts be pinned on the cutting-board or
table, and not held up by two persons, for if the
seams of a gored skirt are in the least stretched
it will never look well, unless unpicked, tacked,
stitched, and pressed over again, but this trouble
will be saved by a little attention when first
done. When you have got all the seams of the
skirt pinned face to face, top and bottom, cut off
all turnings at the bottom, leaving about i inch
to turn in when you line it up. If the lining
is much gored, you will have to make the lining
to fit before sewing any part of it on the skirt.

On no account put pleats in the lining of a
skirt bottom. The best plan is to cut the

34

DRESSMAKING.

lining when you are cutting out the skirt, then
you will be able to cut it the exact shape.
When this is done, stitch and press open each
seam, and turn J an inch down at the top edge
of the lining with a neat tacking of i inch in
length, and press it on the wrong side. Then
place the right side of the skirt against the right
side of the lining, allow the lining to go a little
beyond the edge of the skirt, and with the skirt
uppermost, sew the two together about ^ an inch
from the edge. Next turn the lining over on to
the inside of the skirt, and tack it neatly round
the edge to keep it in place. Then pin and
hem down the top edge of the lining. Should
you wish to trim the skirt, it is best to place
book muslin or lenoon the inside, to the depth
you intend the trimming to go. A good plan is
to leave the seam next to the back breadth at
the left hand side open, until the skirt is fully
trimmed.

It is always best to cut the muslin or leno
when you cut the material for the skirt. The
muslin must not be joined, but tacked in with
an outer lining of alpaca which should be about
8 inches deep. Run the skirt on to the alpaca
and muslin together, then turn the alpaca over

DRESSMAKING. 35

on to the inside, tacking and hemming it down
on to the muslin. Now put the braid on. The
best way is to fold the edges of the braid
together, and run or hem it round the bottom
of the skirt, which, when finished, will look like
a cording on the right side. Another way is to
lay the braid between the skirt and lining, and
run the three together. Some simply bind the
dress bottom, stitching the braid down with the
sewing machine. After you have put the braid
on, make the pocket and sew it in the skirt.

Hozv to make the pocket. — First cut it out in
lining, not less than 14 inches long, and when
doubled it should measure about 8 inches across
at the widest part. Cut the pocket in a rounded
shape at the bottom, then put a chalk mark
about 8 inches up from the deepest part of this
rounded shape, and commence to slope from this
chalk mark up to the top of the pocket, leaving
it about 3 inches wide. Next face each piece
with a straight-cut strip of the dress material.
Sew these strips on the part which will come to
the inside of the pocket. The pocket can be
either stitghed round on the outside, and neatly
overcast, or turned inside out and run close to
the ed2:e, then turned out and stitched with the

36 DRESSMAKING.

sewing-machine, not quite ^ of an inch from the
edge (this is the best way, as it encloses the raw
edge). When the pocket is finished sew it into
the seam in the skirt that comes opposite to the
front or back under-arm seam in the bodice,
and about lO inches down from the waist-Hne
(according to the figure of the lady). Sew the
pocket in by hand, keeping it next to you, then
cut off all turnings, neatly overcast, and finish
with a piece of tape from the waist-band to the
top of the pocket. Sew one end of the tape
firmly on to the top of the pocket, and with a
few firm stitches sew the other end on to the
waist-band in a straight line up from the pocket.
This tape is to prevent the weight of the pocket
from straining the seam in the skirt, which is
now ready for the waist-band.

To sew the waist-band on. — First turn down the
skirt at the top to the length you require. This
is best done on the cutting-board or table, pinning
the seams face to face, same as you did when you
cut the turnings off the bottom of the skirt (before
running in the lining). When you have got all
seams to face, top and bottom, with your inch
measure take the length, allowing all turnings to
go over to the wrong side at the top of the skirt.

DRESSMAKING. 3/

Now measure the length for your waist-band,
and be sure to allow a little over the size of the
waist for the false hem at the vent or placket-
hole. Sew the ends of the waist-band neatly
down, and pin the skirt and waist-band together
face to face on the right side ; this will bring the
wrong side of the waist-band nearest to you.
Then sew the two firmly together with linen thread
The back breadth must be gathered or pleated
(according to fashion) ; the stitches for the gathers
should be from ^ to i inch long on the right side,
and very small on the wrong side of the skirt.

I have always found that the gathers set best
when this plan is adopted, although I have seen
some dressmakers make the gathers with the
long stitches on the wrong side. When you
have finished the gathers, draw the thread up
and sew the band on to the edge, taking up one
fold of the gathers at a time. Then sew over
the opposite side to keep the gathers in place.

Now sew two medium-sized hooks on to the
end of the band, from the right hand side, then
sew one large patent v/aist-band eye on the end
of the band at the left hand side. Next, take
your inch measure along the inside of the band,
from the eye at the end of the left hand side,

38 DRESSMAKING.

and put a mark on the band at the number of
inches allowed for size of the waist ; sew a patent
waist-band hook on this mark to correspond
with the eye on the left side. Now put the
hook through the eye, you will then see the
place on which to set two medium-sized eyes
to match the hooks on the end of the right hand
side of the waist-band. When you have finished
sewing the hooks and eyes on to the waist-band,
turn the skirt inside out, and sew three or more
pieces of tape, or elastic, on the seams at either
side of the back breadth to keep the fullness at the
back of the skirt in its right place. Then care-
fully draw out the whole of the tackings. The
skirt will now be finished.

DRESS TRIMMINGS — KILTING.

Kilting is a flat pleat like a Scotch kilt, each
pleat taking under as much as is seen on the
top ; viz. if the pleat is i J inches wide on the
outside, it must have a depth of i J inches on the
inside. Kilting always looks best when cut on
the selvage way of the material, but it all
depends on the fashion of the day. After the
kilting is all pleated up it must be pressed on

DRESSMAKING. 39

the wrong side with a hot iron ; then sew on a
broad linen tape, about 6 inches up from the
bottom edge, and another tape 6 inches up from
the first, and so on to within 6 inches from the
top of the kilt.

For a skirt 2^ yards wide you will require a
strip about 7 yards in length. Sometimes dress-
makers allow more or less (according to fashion),
and again some materials do not need the pleats
so full or close to keep them in shape. Thin
silks, satins and other thin goods require to be
lined with fine leno before being kilted.

SINGLE BOX PLEAT.

Single box pleats are all made from ^ to U
inches upwards in width, according to the fashion
of the day. The single box pleat is like the
Scotch kilt, only one kilt pleat goes to the right,
and one to the left ; the pleats must just meet
at the back, but not wrap over. A skirt 2J
yards wide will require a strip not less than 7 or
8- yards long.

The single box pleat can be made in almost
any material, from a depth of 3 inches.

40 DRESSMAKING.

DOUBLE BOX PLEAT.

Double box pleat is just like the single box
pleat, only one is half an inch more or less than
the other, and the small pleat is set upon the
under one, which allows the sides of the under
pleat to be seen. Begin by making one Scotch
kilt pleat, then a smaller one upon that, both to
the right side. Then make a kilt at the opposite,
or left side, \i inches (or according to fashion)
from the edge of the right side pleat ; this will
finish the upper pleat. Now make another kilt
to come under this last one, which will be turned
to the left side also ; this will form the double
box pleat. Make the edges of the upper pleat
to meet on the wrong side ; the under pleats
need not come to the centre, as they must
project a little beyond each side of the top pleat
on the right side. Double box pleats always
look best when made up in material of a good
quality, and can be made from a depth of 6
inches upwards, and in width from i inch.

HOW TO MAKE A GATHERED FLOUNCE.

First cut the breadths on the cross ( or accord-
ing to fashion ), and be sure to leave turnings for

DRESSMAKING. 4I

the hem, also turnings if you wish one flounce
to lap over the other.

If the material be 24 inches wide, allow 10 or
12 inches to each breadth for the gathers.
Sometimes more or less is allowed, but this
depends on the thickness of the material. After
the breadths are ail cut, join and press open each
seam, then hem or line it along the bottom.
When you have finished the hem, halve and
quarter the flounce, which is done as follows : —
First put a thread in the centre of one of the
breadths, and make this breadth come to the
front breadth of the skirt. Next, lay the flounce
on the cutting board or table, and fold it in four,
then put in a thread mark at each of the folds
(same as was don*e for centre of the front breadth) .
Halve and quarter the skirt in the same way,
beginning at the centre of the front breadth,
folding the skirt in four, same as you did the
flounce, putting in a thread mark at each fold.
Then take a strong but fine thread, the same
color as the dress material, and let it be a
little longer than the length of one quarter
length on the skirt, and gather the flounce about
i of an inch from the top edge. As you finish
the running of each quarter, put in a pin and

42 DRESSMAKING.

twist the thread firmly round it to keep the
gathers \n place. After you have finished the
gathers for each quarter, lay the front breadth of
the skirt, right side uppermost, on the skirt-
board or table, and place the front breadth of
the flounce, with the thread mark in centre, on
the mark at centre of front breadth in the skirt.
Pin the two quarters at each side of the front,
first regulating the fulness with a pin, and
taking care that each quarter-mark meets.
Next, pin the two remaining quarters to the
back part, and run or stitch the flounce on to
the skirt, close to the running thread in the
gathers.

PUFFINGS.

If you wish to trim the skirt with a number
of puffings one above the other, cut the material
on the cross to the depth required, and allow
the same number of inches for fulness as for a
gathered flounce (or according to fashion).

If the material is very thin, you can cut the
breadths on the straight (that is from selvage to
selvage). When you have cut all the breadths
for the puffings, join and press open each seam,
and, before you commence the running for the

DRESSMAKING. 43

gathers, halve and quarter the strips (accorduig
to the directions given for a gathered flounce,
remembering to put in a pin or thread mark at
each quarter), then halve and quarter the skirt,
and put a tagking round just where you wish to
commence to sew on the edge of the first puffing.

If the skirt is in the least gored, you must
slope the breadths for the puffings when you cut
them. You will find this plan much better than
that of some dressmakers, who cut each puff
singly when trimming a gored skirt with a
number of puffings.

A good way is to leave the seam nearest to
the back breadth in the skirt unstitched, and set
on all the puffings one by one, as you finish
running them. Or you can adopt the following
plan : — first join the breadths for the puffing as
far up as the second running, which will com-
mence some inches from the first ; viz. if you
wish the puff to be 4 inches deep, you must join
the breadth up to 4^ inches, and commence the
first running ^ inch from the edge, and the
second running (which will form the first puff)
4 inches from the running at the edge ; and as
you finish each quarter, put in a pin, and twist
the thread round it, as in directions given for

44 DRESSMAKING.

gathered flounce. Now lay the skirt on the
cutting-board or table, the front first, placing
the quarter mark at the edge, where the runnings
are on the breadths in the strip for puffing, on
the quarter mark on the front- breadth of the
skirt. Next pin the two front quarters on to
the skirt, until you come to the seams in the
puffing ; then you will be able to take in a little
at each seam, before you commence the running
for the next puff, and so on until you have
finished all the runnings for puffs. Now set the
puffings on to the skirt, with the right side of
the puffing against the right side of the skirt.
The puffing will be uppermost, with the wrong
side towards you, and with the quarter marks
to meet (as in directions given for gathered
flounce). Pin each quarter on to the tacking
made in the skirt, sewing the puffing down with
a firm running-stitch, being particular to run
them all in the same direction, keeping the
stitches quite even and not too tight.

FEATHER RUCHE.

To make feather ruches, first place the material
on the cutting-board or table, and carefully cut

DRESSMAKING. 4'5

from 4 to 6 strips, exactly on the cross, to the
width required ; then cut the same number of
strips only ^ an inch narrower than the first.

Now lay the broad strips one upon the other,
and tack them firmly together, leaving the
edges free to admit of them being frayed out,
which must be done in the contrary direction to
the main thread in the material (attention to
this will make the ruche look feather-like when
finished). Some ruches have two or three laps of
material, the inner ones being from ^ to |^an inch
narrower than the outer strips. Remember the
cross strips must be cut all in one way of the
material, or the ruches will not look feather-like
when finished. Tack and fray out the edges of
the narrow strips in the same way as you did the
broad ones. When both sets of strips are frayed
out at each edge, take them apart, join and press
open each seam, then pleat up each strip in
small single or double box pleats, pinning or
tacking each pleat as you make it. After you
have finished pleating both broad and narrow
strips, lay the narrow strips upon the broader
ones, and tack the two firmly together in the
centre. Then stitch them with the sewing-
machine close by the tacking stitches ; or, if it

46 DRESSMAKING.

be run by hand, the thread should be fine and
of the same color as the material, the stitches
neat and regular. Feather ruche is much used
for trimming outdoor jackets, also evening
dresses, etc.

FLUTED RUCHE.

Fluted ruche is another pretty trimming suit-
able for evening dresses, and is made up in the
same way as the feather ruche, only it is always
made in single box pleats, which are stitched
down at both sides about i of an inch from the
edge. Fluted ruche should never be more than
f to I inch in width, and with both edges pinked
out. Do not make the pleats more than | an inch
in width, and stitch them down with silk thread
to match the color of the material.

FLUTED FLOUNCE.

This trimming is made in the same way as
the fluted ruche, only that one edge is stitched
down and called the top of the flounce, and the
bottom edge is lined up with muslin, or finished
with a row of machine stitching; or, if made of

DRfiSSMAKING. 47

silk, the edges can be pinked out ( if pinking be
in fashion ). Fluted flounce must be pirated
much fuller than a fluted ruche. Some are
made with the pleats to overlap each other at
the back, and others with the pleats to meet back
and front ; and, again, some at the front are made
the same distance apart as the pleats are in width-

GATHERED RUCHE

Is made with strips of material cut either on
the cross or width way, from i^ to 2 inches
wide, and frayed or pinked out at both edges,
then gathered in the centre of the strip over a
piping-cord, or simply with a running of silk
thread. A strip on the cross, cut from material
24 inches wide, will just allow the necessary
fulness to trim a width of material 24 inches
wide. Gathered ruche is a neat finish to the
top of flounces, or for trimming evening dresses,
etc. It also looks well made up in black silk
for trimming the collar and wrists of slight
mourning dresses.

ROLLED OR FRENCH HEM

Is a nice finish to the edge of flounces, etc.
First cut the number of breadths required for

45 DRESSMAKING.

the flounce exactly on the cross, that is, suppos-
ing you allow i^ inches for turnings; viz., ^ inch
for the top, and i^ for the rolled hem at the
bottom. After all the breadths are cut, join
and press open each seam, lay the flounce wrong
side down on the cutting-board or table, then
turn the edge at the bottom i^ inches over on
to the right side, fold this i^ inches into two;
this will cause the raw edge to come even with
the folded part at the bottom of the flounce.
Now run, with a very fine and even stitch, along
the raw and folded edges together, and when
you have finished the running, turn the flounce
so as to bring the wrong side nearest to you,
then turn down the folded edge on to the line
of stitches made by the running just finished,
and hem the edge of the fold neatly down on to
the running. A careful worker who can guide
the sewing-machine, making regular stitches,
can always run the folded edges together by
machine.

I have seen it done in this way, and it looks
much better and firmer than any done by hand.
Of course the hemming over to the wrong side
must be done by hand.

DRESSMAKING. 49

CROSSWAY BANDS.

These can be made of velvet, silk, satin, etc..
and should be lined with leno. In cutting thj
leno be particular to see that it is cut with main
thread in the same direction as those of the
velvet or whatever you intend to line. The
strips of velvet and leno being cut, tack thj
velvet on to the leno, then turn about f of an inch
of the velvet at the bottom of the crossband
over on to the leno, and herring-bone it down.
When you have done this, arrange the cross-
bands on the dress, keeping all seams as far
away from the front breadth of the skirt as
possible, first taking care that you have a tack-
ing round the skirt where you intend the cross-
bands to be sewed on. Lay the raw edge of the
velvet, with the leno, uppermost, close to the edge
of the first tacking, and with the bottom edge of
the crossband towards the top of the skirt, and
tack the velvet down to keep it in place ; then
run the crossbands along from right to left with
a firm and even stitch. Let the running be
about \ inch from the raw edge of the velvet,
and as you finish running each crossway band

50 DRESSMAKING.

on to the skirt, turn it over and tack it lightly
down with a very fine thread, the tackings to
remain until the garment is finisjied.

PIPED BUTTONHOLES.

Piped buttonholes are made by cutting a
buttonhole quite straight, that is, without being
cut out in a rounded shape at the end nearest to
the edge at the hem of the garment. First tack
a strip of leno on the wrong side where you
intend the buttonholes to be cut, then cut the
first buttonhole. Next a strip of the material
(with which you intend to pipe it) on the cross,
and about i inch wide ; fold this strip in two,
right side out, and with the raw edges close
together ; put a fine tacking through to keep the
edges in place ; now lay these edges close against
the edge of one side of the slit cut for buttonhole,
and run them together as near to the edge as
possible.

After you have done this, turn the folded
edge of the strip over on to the wrong side of
the garment, and sew it neatly down on to the
stitches just made by the running on the other
side. When you have finished one side of the

DRESSMAKING. 5 I

slit, do the other in the same way, and be
particular as you come to each end of the slit to
finish off neatly, and without showing the stitches
on the right side of the garment.

REMARKS ON DRESS BODICES, ETC.

When re-making old dresses, always use new
lining for the waist and skirt. For colored
dresses, use soft grey sateen or linen for waist
lining; although not fashionable, it is much better
for waist lining than the figured lining so much
in favor at present. Some readers will be much
surprised to learn that most of these figured
linings are nothing more than old-fashioned
muslin lining, at one time much used for skirts ;
but it had not, at that time, the ^pretty printed
patterns which are now seen on the right side ;
some of these linings are stouter than others,
according to the price ; but, however good they
may appear, they are not suitable for anyone of
limited means ; of course, they are much cheaper
than silk, sateen, or linen waist lining, but they
often, when in use, wear out before the material.
Those who would practice economy in regard to
waist lining should use soft grey or white

52 DRESSMAKING.

holland for merino and other goods of that
class; for silk and satin dresses use silk twilled
waist lining, good sateen same color as material
for dress, or soft white linen.

Use sateen covered with thin silk or satin to
line transparent goods, such as grenadine, net,
etc. For muslin or cambric dresses use soft
white linen or fine long cloth ; and for printed
cottons a fine even calico.

Serges, tweeds, and other thick materials
should be lined with jeannette. When choosing
waist-lining, it is as well to remember that a
thin material should have a thin lining, and a
strong stuff a stout lining ; but endeavor to get
the material for the dress and the lining about
the same consistency.

Always commence to stitch the seams in a
dress bodice from the top down, and press open
all seams, except those which join the back and
side-forms together, unless the garment be made
of thick material ; in that case lay the side-form
seams open, and be sure to overcast, or bind
with narrow ribbon, the edges of all seams in the
bodice.

Some dressmakers nick the edges with
scissors ; this may save trouble, but it looks very

DRESSMAKING. 53

untidy, and is never done by a good dress-
maker.

If you wish the bodice to wear well, do not
put steel into the whalebone casing, and re-
member to reserve all whalebone taken out of
the casings in your old dress bodices, and use it
when re-making old garments. For a new dress
purchase new whalebone (p. 26), and before it is
put into the casings see that each end of the
bone is rubbed down with a small file ; then
make one end of a fine knitting-needle red hot,
and with this make a small hole at each end of
this whalebone.

After you have inserted the whalebone into
the casing, put in a few firm stitches through
each of the holes made by the knitting-needle ;
this will fix the bone in place, and keep it from
shifting.

When you work the buttonholes, use medium-
sized twist for merino and other goods of that
class. Small buttonholes on a dress bodice
should not be placed more than i an inch apart.
The best plan to get them even is to measure
the distance between each one, and put in a pin
or white tacking to mark the place for each
buttonhole, and remember in all cases to finish

54 DRESSMAKING.

the buttonholes before sewing on the buttons
(p. 26), and when you commence to sew them on
to do the one nearest to the neck-band first. Fix
the button in place with four firm stitches, then
twist the thread four times round the shank of
the button and the stitches togother.

After you have done this, put your needle
through to the wrong side of the bodice and
fasten off with four firm stitches.

When you wish the bodice to be fastened
with hooks and eyes, for a washing dress, you
will find it a good plan to put a row of machine
stitching close to the edge of the hem at the
side where the hooks are intended to be sewn
on, and when the hooks are all fixed, tack a
piece of ribbon or tape over the shanks, and hem
it down on both sides without showing the
stitches on the right side of the bodice.

Now sew the eyes close to the edge of the
hem, at the opposite side of the bodice, allowing
just sufficient of the eye to be seen on the right
side to admit of the hook being passed through
when you fasten the bodice. After the eyes are
all fixed, take a strip of the material to match
the dress, about i^ inches wide, cut on the
straight way, and the length of the front of the

DRFSSMAKING. 5^

bodice where the eyes are fixed ; tack a piece o
book muslin or leno on the wrong side of this
strip, then turn over, and tack down about ^
of an inch of the material on to the muslin.
Now place the right side of the strip just over
the eyes on the inside of the bodice, and allow i
inch with the part where the i inch was turned
over to project beyond the line where the eyes
are fixed ; then tack the strip in place, and with
a firm back stitch sew down the hem where the
eyes come on to the strip, taking the stitches
right through to the muslin or leno. Next line
the strip with a piece of ribbon about i^ inches
wide (if a washing dress a strip of lining will do),
and be particular to finish this part of the bodice
neatly, and to hide all turnings with the ribbon
lining. If you prefer the bodice to fasten up the
back, you must allow turnings on the centre
seam at the back, same as you would do for a
bodice fastened in front. After all seams, but
the one at the centre of the back, are joined,
pressed open, etc., work the buttonholes on the
right hand side of the bodice, sew the buttons
on the left hand side, and finish in the same way
as for bodice fastened in front. When piping
the armholes of a dress bodice, avoid stretchinof

56 DRESSMAKING.

either the pipinn^-cord orarmhole, and commence
to tack the strip of cording on the armhole
between the back and front under-arm seams,
and when you finish off, do not cross the ends of
the piping-cord ; it is a much better plan to
turn i of an inch of one end of the strip of
cording to the inside, and slip the other end
within this, and put a few firm stitches to keep
the cord from shifting.

Always avoid a seam in the back at the centre
of a basque, made in the pleated, fan, or postilion
style, and when you arrange the pleats of the
basque, tack each one neatly down to keep it in
place. The tackings will not only keep the
pleats in position, but will cause them to keep
the fold after they are drawn out. The e(.]ge of
basques require to be lined with sarsnet, or thin
silk same colour as the dress material. The
sarsnet should be cut to the shape. First tack a
cross-cut strip of leno round the bottom of the
basque, now cut the sarsnet to shape, or on the
cross, about i^ inches wide, line with the cross
strip as follows.

Having cut the number of strips for the length
required, join, and lay the seams open with your
forefinger, then place the right side of the strip

DRESSMAKING. 57

of silk on to the right side of the bodice at the
edge of the basque, and run the two together ^
of an inch from the edge, keeping the basque
uppermost, and the edge a little tight on the
strip of silk. When you have finished running
the two together, turn the silk over to the inside
of the bodice, and tack it neatly round the edge,
so that no part of the silk will show on the
outside. Then turn in the raw edge and hem it
down ; be careful not to show the stitches on
right side of the basque. Another way : — first
tack a cross strip of fine leno round the bottom
of the basque, then turn ^ of an inch over on to
the leno, and herring bone both leno and material
down on to the lining of the bodice. Next take
a strip of sarsnet, turn in one edge and tack it
close round the bottom, so as not to show on
right side of basque. When the silk is all tacked
on, hem or sew it down with slip stitches, then
tack the opposite side, and hem it neatly down
on to the lining.

All edges of untrimmed garments, such as
polonaises, tunics, etc., should be lined with
sarsnet : sometimes they are finished with a hem
turned on to the wrong side, and slip-stitched or
run along with the sewing machine.

58 DRESSMAKING.

When trimming a bodice, attention should be
paid to the style of the lady. If the dress be for
a tall, slender figure, trim the bodice in some neat
fashion across the chest, make the basque full
at the back, and trim the sleeves at the wrist,
and ( if in fashion ) at the top with a puff or some
other style of trimming.

The skirt for a tall lady should be fully
trimmed with drapery, etc. For a short figure the
trimmings should be put on the dress length-
ways, viz., from shoulder to waist, and the sleeves
trimmed up from the wrist, or from the top of
the sleeve down ( according to fashion ), or they
can be worn without trimming. Short ladies
should never wear deep flounces, or too many
small ones ; all trimmings should be put on the
skirt lengthways, to correspond with the bodice.
Do not make the skirt too full at the back ; let
the drapery be neat, and not too much puffed
up, nor too high up on the skirt.

Medium-sized ladies can wear almost any
style of dress, but should be careful not to wear
a skirt with too much drapery at the back ;
always let this part of the costume be arranged
according to the figure of the wearer.

DRESSMAKING. 59

REMARKS ON SLEEVES.

In cutting sleeves, whether short or long, be
careful to see that the part which comes from
the inside seam on aline with the highest part
which fits at the top of the shoulders, be cut on
the cross. This applies to both material and
lining, and no sleeve will set in its right position
unless this is attended to. And be sure that
you just cut out the right amount at the armpit ;
it is a good plan to measure a comfortable-fitting
sleeve in one of your dresses in use. You will
then be able to judge how much it will be
necessary to cut out. The top of the upper half
of a sleeve is always much rounded, and it is the
highest part of this rounded shape that must
come to the highest part of the shoulder ; by
attending to this, the inner seam will come in its
right place.

Always cut dress sleeves above the elbow, on
the straight way of the material, so that the bias
will come at the wrist. The under part of a
dress sleeve, as well as the upper part, always
looks best when cut on the straight way of the
material above the elbow. For this reason,

60 DRESSMAKING.

many kinds of material sold for dresses will not
bear the same strain as the cloth supplied for
garments, such as out-door jackets, etc. Another
reason why the under part of a dress sleeve should
be cut on the straight above the elbow, is that
broad and narrow stripes and check patterns do
not look well, if the stripe or check on the outer
seam of the under half docs not correspond with
that on the upper half of the sleeve.

Sometimes it is better to cut the sleeves with-
out the outer seam above the elbow. In all
cases try to have the threads of the lining to
run in the same direction as those of the
material ; that is, if one is cut on the straight
or cross, the other, if possible, must be cut to
match.

When making sleeves with lengthway puffs,
allow, if the sleeve measures 22 or 24 inches at
the outside seam, from 10 inches upwards for
gathers, and about the same number of inches
for the width round sleeve, as the puff will
require to be set up, also allow 4 or 5 inches over
the width at the wrist, according to the thick-
ness of the material.

Thin tissues, such as tulle, net, gauze, grena-
dine, etc., require as much again as is allowed

DRESSMAKING. 6 1

for the length of the sleeve. When making up
net sleeves in this style, it is best to make the
puffs on a foundation of the same ; this applies
to all transparent goods, unless you have a silk
or satin foundation, which you wish to be seen
through the puffs.

Commence the lenglhway puffs with the first
running from the shoulder to the elbow point,
and the rest of the runnings will go down to the
wrist. When you have finished all the runnings,
pin and regulate each puff, making those at the
top of the sleeve much larger than the puffs at
the wrist. Some puffs are cut on the cross, and
others on the straight.

When making puffs to go round the sleeve
from the top to the wrist, if the sleeve measures
22 inches on the outside seam, and i6 inches on
the inside, allow lo inches upwards for gathers
at the top, and about 4 inches over the width at
the wrist, and from 6 inches over the length of
the sleeve, according to the numoer of puffs
required ; the puffs at the top of the sleeve must
be larger than those at the wrist. When net
puffs are sewed on a foundation of the same, use
silk ribbon for the waist-band (this also applies
to other thin tissues).

62 DRESSMAKING.

If you wish to trim the sleeve round the top
with a single puff (which is best cut on the cross,
and gathered or pleated, small pleats always
look much better than gathers, unless the
material be very thick or thin), cut a strip to the
width required for the puff, and as much again
as the width round the top of the sleeve. Next
pleat the top of the puff to the size of the arm-
hole, in small kilt pleats, all turned one way,
that is, from the front to the back seam in the
sleeve. Then gather or pleat the bottom edge.
If pleats, they must be in the opposite direction
to those at the top of the puff. Now put a
tacking mark round the sleeve to the depth
from the top where you wish the puff to go, and
lay the bottom edge of the puff with the right
side of the material against the right side of the
sleeve, and with the top part of the puff towards
the wrist, pin the raw edge close by the tacking
mark ; and, as you do this, regulate the fulness^
allowing very little to come at the under-part
of the sleeve ; then run the puff firmly down close
to the edge at the tacking mark on the sleeve,
being particular to make the running stitches
firm and regular ; having finished the running
turn the top part of the puff which is lying

DRESSMAKING. 6}

towards the wrist over on to the top of the
sleeve, and tack it in place. When a sleeve is
to be trimmed at the wrist with a band of velvet,
or rows of braid, it is best to leave the lining at
the wrist undone, and line it after the trimming
is set on ; then the silk lining can be hemmed
down and so hide all stitches.

Cuffs are always the better for being lined
with book muslin or leno, and made up and
slip-stitched on to the sleeve. When sewing the
cuff on, allow it to go just beyoijd the edge of
the sleeve, remembering always to completely
finish the sleeve ready for stitching into tbe
armhole before trimmino: the wrist.

HOW TO MAKE UP A VELVET CUFF.

First cut the cuff out in muslin or leno, and
make it to fit the wrist of the sleeve you intend to
trim ; allow |- an inch for turnings all round, then
cut the velvet to match, and be sure to see that
the nap of the velvet is in the right direction.
Now tack the velvet on to the muslin or leno.
When this is done turn ^ an inch at the top and
bottom edges of the cuff over on to the muslin,
and hem it down with herrinjj-bone stitches.

64 DRESSMAKIXG.

Line the inside of the cuff with sarsnet or thin
but firm silk; then close the seam on the inside
with a neat back stitch, and hem the silk lining
over the seam to hide all turnings. Now place
the cuff on the wrist, and allow it to go about ^
inch beyond the edge of the sleeve. Before you
slip stitch the cuff upon the wrist, be careful to
see that the join on the cuff is about i inch to
the inside of the inner seam of the sleeve.

When the sleeve is to be trimmed with 3 or
more rows of braid at the wrist, it is best to
leave 4 or 5 inches of the inner seam undone; in
this way you will be able to join the braid
neatly with the inner seam when you close
it up.

REMARKS ON SKIRTS.

In cutting a trained skirt, allow one breadth for
the front, with a second breadth trom 3 to 5 inches
longer than the front width, and cut into two gores,
that is, one to either side of the front breadth.
These gores must be sloped off to the second
gores, which will measure from 4 to 6 inches
longer than the first, and with the full width of the
material at the bottom,sloping up to about 7 inches
at the top (according to the figure of the wearer).

DRESSMAKING. 65

If the dress be for a medium-sized lady, and the
goods measure from 27 to 32 inches wide, allow
one breadth for the back ; this breadth should
be four inches or more longer than the second
gore, according to the length required for the
train (but if the dress be for a stout figure, allow
two or more breadths for the back). The
breadth for the centre of the back must be cut
in a rounded shape at the bottom, to meet the
sloped parts of the second gore.

When the material has a right and a wrong
•side, or an up and a down pattern, the gores for
a skirt must be cut one beyond the other ; viz.
cut the front breadth first, then one gore for the
right side of the front breadth ; next lay this
gore with the right side face on to the right side
of the material, and with the selvage edges to
meet, cut out the gore for the left side. When
you have cut the first two gores, cut the second
two in the same way, being particular to see
that each piece is cut with the pattern running
all in one direction (this applies to velvet and
other materials with a raised pile, and to all
goods with figured patterns running in one
direction). The seams of a velvet or other skirt
having a raised pile, should be run with a light

66 DRESSMAKING.

easy stitch, so that the pile will not" appear
pressed down. These skirts should be lined
throughout with silk, sateen, or victoria lawn,
and turned up round the bottom with a strip of
ribbon or fine alpaca.

When no improver is to be worn with a walk-
ing skirt, the back should not measure more than
from I to li inches longer than the front. Slip
skirts for evening wear are made of silk, satin,
muslin, sateen, etc., same color as the material
for the costume. The slip skirt should measure
from ^ to f of an inch shorter than the outer
skirt, unless the edge is intended to be seen below
the upper* skirt; in that case, the slip petticoat
must be cut long enough to admit of being seen
below the outer skirt.

Always cut the slip petticoat when cutting
the outer skirt. If the slip petticoat is to be
trimmed with kilting, cut the outer skirt accord-
ingly. Should you desire a skirt set out round
the bottom, line the strip of alpaca (with which
you intend lining the bottom of the skirt)
with a strip of stout muslin cut on the cross,
which must be tacked on to the wrong side of
the alpaca ; cut the muslin one inch deeper
than the alpaca. When the strips of muslin are

DRESSMAKING. 6/

all cut (but before being shaped to fit the bottom
of the skirt), turn up li inches at one edge of
the muslin, so that the raw edge will come
next to the alpaca, and prevent the edge of the
muslin cutting the material at the bottom of the
skirt while in use. Next shape and tack the
muslin on to the alpaca, which will now be i
of an inch over the muslin at the top ; turn this
^ of an inch over on to the muslin and tack it
down. The lining is now ready to fit round the
bottom of the skirt.

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